

One place to look the left bottom edge of the slide where it rubs against the slide stop. Is there any other areas of note I should be checking for wear or notable quirks?Ĭheck areas that rub together during cycling. Such as the slide-stop wear tidbit I will absolutely be looking at that when I have the gun in hand again, and post pictures accordingly. Which is why I've consulted more than one forum. I have no reference material to digest, so all I can do at the moment is read as literally as possible into the words I'm told by yourself and others who are gracious enough to offer advice. The cannons are incredibly faint, and thus nearly impossible for me to tell if they're burnished, although I spotted what looked like a sheen when examining all the stamps again for burnishing as I was advised.īased on your choice of words, it sounds like although an original finish having much of the same tone on all parts is improbable, it may not be impossible. The P stamps (are these the DOD acceptance stamps?) Are also clearly burnished, particularly the slide stamp. The SN is burnished, and is quite clear when viewed in a low-light photo (which I forgot to attach) when comparing it to the stampings on the slide adjacent to it. I was told the SN and DOD acceptance marks were stamped post parkerizing, and should have bare metal and possibly slight rust as a result. I would assume the only caveat to that is if you have the proper stamps to re-stamp it. I was told burnishing "cannot be faked or re-created" on a re-finished pistol. My response deleted as I was trying to edit it. 45ACP 230gr ball ammunition – unopened 50rd box. 45ACP Army-issued Ammunition (non-corrosive): US Army issued.
Ithaca 1911 price guide serial number#
UNITED STATES PROPERTY stamped above the Serial Number on the right side of the frame and M 1911 A1 U.S. Ithaca-specific geometric proof mark on the left front trigger guard.
